Aloha Friends and family! Just wanted to update you guys on what’s going on here on Maui this week. Yesterday I started my day donating a lesson to the Make-A-Wish Foundation and had the privilege of teaching a special young man by the name of Thomas how to surf. Thomas has been battling Leukemia since the age of 9 and his wish was to learn how to surf from a pro surfer. I was blessed with enough to get to take not only Thomas but his little sister Eva and his Dad JT. I must say it was one of my the more memorable lessons I have ever taught. Thomas had a spiritual experience in the water and still stood up on his first wave! He was absolutely glowing!
This morning I woke up at 6am and drove straight to Kahului to surf a special wave that rarely breaks. I cannot disclose the name of this amazing wave but I will tell you that it’s about 1 mile from the Kahului airport. When I arrived at the parking lot to my surprise there was nobody in the water. The waves were about 25 feet on the face and absolutely perfect. I decided to paddle out by myself, and when I got out there the surf was twice as big as it looked from the beach!
I watched a couple waves roll through that you could have got a large bus in the barrel. Needless to say I was very cautious. I ended up catching about 5 waves and my last wave was my best one.
After I returned home I had to get my boat prepped for the 2016 Pe’ahi Challenge which will be held tomorrow at the famed surf break Jaws. I was hired to run security in the channel on my boat. This contest is probably the most prestigious big wave surfing event in today’s age. I will be rooting for ZHS employee Tyler Larronde tomorrow! GO TYLER!
Aloha friends family and fans! After surfing my brains out for 2 weeks straight at Honolua bay I am tired, sunburnt and sore. I feel very grateful to have a world -lass wave on the island of Maui. Yesterday was a really long day and I managed to clock in 7 hours in the water. I rode my longboard for the first half of the day while the swell grew and grew! Then all of a sudden it was like someone flipped a switch and it just started pumping. It went from being head high all day till about 2pm. Then just as if someone flipped a switch the sets grew to triple overhead plus! That’s when I paddled in and grabbed my shorter board. I surfed until my arms would no longer work! I must have caught 50 waves that day!
After I got out of the water I drove straight to the Alii Kai in Kaanapali and sat in the hot tub to decompress and loosen up a bit. After soaking in the spa I went to the Hyatt and valeted my truck and went to the sushi bar where I proceeded to stuff my face. I got to reflect on how grateful I am to live in such a beautiful place.
Today I woke up at the crack of dawn and went straight back to Honolua bay. The crowd was really intense this morning! A hand full of professional surfers flew over from Oahu and it was very competitive in the water. The surf was still amazing with double to triple overhead waves.. I took my longboard out for my second surf today and was able to maneuver around the crowd and got a ton of waves and some really fun noserides.
Tomorrow I am back to teaching 3 surf lessons and waiting for the next big swell to fill in on Thursday night. Then on Friday I am running security in the channel for the PEAHI CHALLENGE big wave event!
The WSL runs this contest and I feel honored to be a part of the show and get paid to do it. I look forward to watching Zack Howard Surf employee and star surf instructor TYLER LARRONDE compete in the event. What an honor to actually be invited to surf in this contest!
The best big wave surfers in the world will be here trying to tackle the crazy waves at the famed surf break Jaws!
Well today was a great day! I started out with a surf lesson at Ukumehame. The surf was absolutely perfect. My guests had a wonderful session. It was their first time surfing, and all three of them got up and rode successfully. Not only did they ride waves, they actually learned about timing and positioning, and how to turn into the wave. In my opinion Maui is the best place in the world to learn how to surf. Taking a surf lesson on Maui can be one of the most amazing experiences in your life. I feel very fortunate to live here, and share my passion with others.
After my lesson, I went to a secret surf spot with some friends, and we rode some more advanced type waves on shortboards. The swell never got as big as it was originally predicted to get, but nevertheless we had a blast sharing waves. Tomorrow I have three lessons, and the swell is supposed to hold. So It will be another fun filled day for my clients!
I am looking forward to this summer. The forecast looks promising for good weather, and great waves. I hope that I am able to share my passion for surfing with others, and teach them how to be safe in the water. I feel fortunate to be one of the only surfers on Maui that can teach from the very beginner level, all the way to the aspiring pro surfer.
Let’s have some fun in the water!
Big south swell on it’s way to Maui!! Tip for the week is Hawaiian roll, when caught inside by a big wave, approach the wave head on, and roll your board upside down, pulling your body close to the board, and blowing out of your nose as the whitewater passes over you. When you have cleared the whitewater, roll your board back over and paddle like a mad dog!!