Aloha Friends and family! Just wanted to update you guys on what’s going on here on Maui this week. Yesterday I started my day donating a lesson to the Make-A-Wish Foundation and had the privilege of teaching a special young man by the name of Thomas how to surf. Thomas has been battling Leukemia since the age of 9 and his wish was to learn how to surf from a pro surfer. I was blessed with enough to get to take not only Thomas but his little sister Eva and his Dad JT. I must say it was one of my the more memorable lessons I have ever taught. Thomas had a spiritual experience in the water and still stood up on his first wave! He was absolutely glowing!
This morning I woke up at 6am and drove straight to Kahului to surf a special wave that rarely breaks. I cannot disclose the name of this amazing wave but I will tell you that it’s about 1 mile from the Kahului airport. When I arrived at the parking lot to my surprise there was nobody in the water. The waves were about 25 feet on the face and absolutely perfect. I decided to paddle out by myself, and when I got out there the surf was twice as big as it looked from the beach!
I watched a couple waves roll through that you could have got a large bus in the barrel. Needless to say I was very cautious. I ended up catching about 5 waves and my last wave was my best one.
After I returned home I had to get my boat prepped for the 2016 Pe’ahi Challenge which will be held tomorrow at the famed surf break Jaws. I was hired to run security in the channel on my boat. This contest is probably the most prestigious big wave surfing event in today’s age. I will be rooting for ZHS employee Tyler Larronde tomorrow! GO TYLER!