Aloha friends family and fans! After surfing my brains out for 2 weeks straight at Honolua bay I am tired, sunburnt and sore. I feel very grateful to have a world -lass wave on the island of Maui. Yesterday was a really long day and I managed to clock in 7 hours in the water. I rode my longboard for the first half of the day while the swell grew and grew! Then all of a sudden it was like someone flipped a switch and it just started pumping. It went from being head high all day till about 2pm. Then just as if someone flipped a switch the sets grew to triple overhead plus! That’s when I paddled in and grabbed my shorter board. I surfed until my arms would no longer work! I must have caught 50 waves that day!
After I got out of the water I drove straight to the Alii Kai in Kaanapali and sat in the hot tub to decompress and loosen up a bit. After soaking in the spa I went to the Hyatt and valeted my truck and went to the sushi bar where I proceeded to stuff my face. I got to reflect on how grateful I am to live in such a beautiful place.
Today I woke up at the crack of dawn and went straight back to Honolua bay. The crowd was really intense this morning! A hand full of professional surfers flew over from Oahu and it was very competitive in the water. The surf was still amazing with double to triple overhead waves.. I took my longboard out for my second surf today and was able to maneuver around the crowd and got a ton of waves and some really fun noserides.
Tomorrow I am back to teaching 3 surf lessons and waiting for the next big swell to fill in on Thursday night. Then on Friday I am running security in the channel for the PEAHI CHALLENGE big wave event!
The WSL runs this contest and I feel honored to be a part of the show and get paid to do it. I look forward to watching Zack Howard Surf employee and star surf instructor TYLER LARRONDE compete in the event. What an honor to actually be invited to surf in this contest!
The best big wave surfers in the world will be here trying to tackle the crazy waves at the famed surf break Jaws!